Kimberly J. Williams, travel writer
Arkansas Department of Parks and
Tourism
Barbecue is a legend unto itself in the Mississippi Delta region. Southerners,
especially, take barbecue very seriously. Yet barbecue is subjective – so many
aspects come into play, especially they style of barbecue you grew up eating.
For Harold Jones of Marianna, it’s as much a part of his life as
breathing.
Jones’s barbecue has been a part of the food culture in the
Arkansas Delta for more than a century. The Southern Foodways Alliance, an
organization “dedicated to the documentation and celebration of the diverse food
cultures of the American South,” believes Jones’s to be the oldest
African-American owned restaurants in the South and possibly the nation. James
Harold Jones, the current owner and pitmaster, says it started with his
grandfather’s Uncle Joe. His grandfather and father followed Uncle Joe into the
smoking business, selling barbecue out of their homes. It was Jones’s father
Hubert that started the diner in 1964. Jones started working in the restaurant
when he was 14. He told me the only time his father would let him skip school
“was when I was working in the diner.”
On March 13, 2012, the James Beard
Foundation designated Jones’s Bar-B-Q Diner as an America’s Classic. The
organization defines America’s Classics as “restaurants with timeless appeal and
that are beloved for quality food that reflects the character of their
community.” Jones’s is one of five restaurants throughout America to receive the
honor this year. To be chosen and designated as an America’s Classic, the
restaurant must be locally owned and in existence for at least 10 years.
At Jones’s Bar-B-Q Diner, the menu is simple and straightforward. You
can get sandwiches, on white bread, with or without the homemade slaw or you can
buy the meat by the pound. That’s pretty much it. You can buy a cold canned
drink and a bag of chips to complete your meal, but you won’t find beans or
fries or any other food. It’s usually a one-man operation at the diner, and
Jones said it’s best to just keep it simple. He did tell me that he used to do
barbecued bologna sandwiches, but it got too time-consuming…everyone wanted
something different on their sandwich. So he decided to go back to the basics.
The customers must not mind, because they’re still flocking to Jones’s every day
it’s open. So many loyal patrons that Jones estimates on a regular week, he
cooks 900 pounds of pork. On holidays such as Memorial Day and Fourth of July,
that number skyrockets. Customers are fiercely loyal.
In Marianna,
Jones’s barbecue has been a part of families’ lives for generations. I remember
visiting the diner as a child, amazed at the smoke that plumed from the building
and the smell that surrounded the area. Countless family “get-togethers”
featured the chopped pork from Jones’s, with a container of the red, vinegary
sauce on the side. It’s more than just smoked meat…it’s part of the culinary
fabric that defines a family and the recollections of its members. This barbecue
is as prevalent in my memories as my grandmother’s chocolate gravy. In the
South, food is more than sustenance. It’s a passion…an obsession…an art form!
Locals know when Jones has meat on the pit because the aroma of smoked pork
penetrates the air.
At Jones’s Bar-B-Q Diner, located at 219 W. Louisiana
St., it’s all about barbecue. The barbecue, the slaw or the sauce has not
changed in over a century…the preparation and the recipes remain the same. In a
recent article in Saveur magazine, culinary writer John T. Edge described Jones
as, “one pitmaster I’ll always go out of my way to visit.” Edge knows his food.
He’s a former contributor to Gourmet magazine, writes a monthly food column for
The New York Times, and serves as director of the Southern Foodways Alliance at
Ole Miss. Edge is not a newcomer to Marianna’s barbecue of choice; he wrote an
award-nominated article about Jones for the Oxford American in 2009. Rex Nelson
discovered Jones’s in the early 1990s, on one of his many trips through the
Arkansas Delta during his time with the Delta Regional Authority. Nelson is a
friend of Edge, and frequently would suggest restaurants to Edge, including
Jones’s Bar-B-Que Diner. Both Edge and Nelson have visited numerous times.
Nelson has a well-known love for the Arkansas Delta and the region has featured
prominently in his columns and blogs.
The popular barbecue joint is
located at 219 W. Louisiana St., off Ark. 1B in Marianna. The diner is normally
open Monday through Saturday from 7:30 a.m. until about 2 p.m. The hours vary,
especially when Jones sells all the barbecue he has on hand. It’s best to call
and check before traveling to visit. The telephone number is
870-295-3807.
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